Bare Root Plants - AGAVES
Many Agaves, cacti, yuccas and some succulents can be bare rooted prior to shipping with little to no stress on the plant. However, how they are handled and replanted after arrival will determine how successful they grow and perform long-term. Although all these types of plants have similar characteristics, there are some important differences in how they should be handled. Here are some helpful instructions, tips and notes...
AGAVES
Firstly, it is important to understand that the roots Agaves arrive with are primarily for anchorage. These roots have little to no ability to absorb moisture. Not to worry though, these plants have adapted to sustain themselves for long periods on their stored carbohydrates. In time, the plant will grow all new roots for water absorption. This typically takes about 6-8 weeks in optimal conditions. The tricky part of bare root planting, is to keep the soil moist enough, but not too moist. Keeping the soil too moist while they are not absorbing water can be very detrimental and lead to rotting Agaves.
In general, Agaves prefer a loose, well-drained soil with just a bit of added organic matter like peat, aged manure or compost. An average pH range of 6.5 to 7.5 is mostly ideal. Heavy clay soils can limit healthy plant growth and pose the largest potential problems from root rot. Therefore, we recommend amending clay soils properly prior to planting. (Notes regarding soil amendments are below and you can find even more information in our published blog SOIL MATTERS.)
Basic Planting Procedure
- Remove them from their container.
- Remove any yellow or soft lower leaves. Pulling them off gently is best.
- Prop plants upright as soon as possible and keep them in a part sun location for about 3-5 days to harden off before planting. After this initial period, savvy gardeners usually place plants in the location where they are to be planted for a few additional days prior to planting to allow them to better acclimate to their new site.
NOTE: Obvious broken roots, if any, can be trimmed off but otherwise no additional root pruning is needed.
- Once the hardening-off process is completed, plant into loose, amended, well-drained soil.
- Plant Agaves with the base of the leaves at or slightly above the natural soil grade, taking into consideration the depth of any cosmetic mulch, or gravel that may also be added after planting, etc.
NOTE: Applying a layer of perlite, pumice or ground cinders between the agave leaves and the natural soil, can help prevent moisture wicking or potential fungal issues later.
- When backfilling around the roots, it is extremely important to make sure that when you are finished, there is good root-to-soil contact. This means avoiding air-pockets in the root zone. With perennials, shrubs or trees, you can tamp down soil then water slowly and deeply which removes these potential air pockets, but with Agaves, cacti and succulents watering too much can cause problems. Instead, use the end of a hand trowel, shovel, or a bamboo or wooden stake to carefully tamp and pack the amended soil around the roots. Taking care not to damage the plant or injure yourself on the teeth or spines.
- Once the soil is firm around the roots, apply water around the base of the plant to saturate the soil, but not to the point of ponding. Again, if the soil has been properly amended, watering the soil at planting should be fine, especially during spring and summer. Avoid wetting the foliage, as leaves can burn or discolor from puddling water and plants can rot if excess moisture lingers within the crown. As the plant matures, they will better adapt. NOTE: At planting time, do not apply any fertilizers or pesticides, just water through the establishment period. It can take plants several months to root in and become fully established, so be patient but attentive.
TIP: When planting during fall or winter months, water new Agaves just enough to settle the soil at the surface with a plan to water sporadically until plants start growing again with the onset of warmer weather. During the winter, moisture in the root zone or around the base of succulent plants including Agaves, can lead to tissue collapse and rotting.
SOIL AMENDMENTS
Use the same types of organic materials mentioned above like peat, aged manure, or loose compost. Avoid pea gravel or rocks, as these mixed with clay, can create adobe or a cement-like material that is valuable for building but not for growing plants in.
Instead, for long-term beneficial results, use inorganic compounds like perlite, pumice stone, or crushed cinders. Remember the larger the particle size, the faster draining the soil will be, but nutrient exchange works best with good root to soil contact, so too many large particles in the soil profile can also become problematic. As mentioned above, applying a thin layer of pumice or perlite over the soil and under an Agave keeps the leaves from directly contacting the moist soil, which helps to wick moisture away. This technique can be especially helpful to those gardening in naturally wetter climates.
For more plant care and valuable garden information please read all our blogs and visit our site regularly to read the next blog post. As always, if you have questions or want additional suggestions, don't hesitate to email us: happyvalleyplants@gmail.com
**Blogs & photos by Daniel S. Goodspeed, without use of AI. No photos or blog info may be reprinted or reproduced without permission or consent of the author, Happy Valley Plants™ or its subsidiaries.**
